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Posted

Looking for recommendations for a Mobile Mechanic in the Wigston area who can fix my car either today or tomorrow.

 

I'm having problems with my car. Twice this last week I've been unable to start it and had to call out Green Flag, both times they just used a a Battery Booster pack to start it as it seems like the battery had gone flat even though in one of the time it had started ok and I'd just driven 6 miles for it then not to start.

 

I've had the battery checked and that seems fine, searching google it could be the alternator.

 

I've got to a point where I daren't go anywhere in it in case it wont start and I doubt Green Flag will want to help a 3rd time. 

 

Thanks in advance

Posted (edited)

Consider one of these if you have Prime…. I had a car that suffered battery drain if you left it for a week or longer…. Just popped one of these on and it always started instantly 

 

SANWAN 20000mAh Car Battery Jump Starter, Portable Outdoor Power Tool Chargers Booster https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0816F2GH9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0ZGW3EM77TZN1601GW0G

 

Will tide you over until you get a permanent fix?

Edited by Wolfox
  • Like 1
Posted
10 minutes ago, Wolfox said:

Consider one of these if you have Prime…. I had a car that suffered battery drain if you left it for a week or longer…. Just popped one of these on and it always started instantly 

 

SANWAN 20000mAh Car Battery Jump Starter, Portable Outdoor Power Tool Chargers Booster https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0816F2GH9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0ZGW3EM77TZN1601GW0G

 

Will tide you over until you get a permanent fix?

Thanks looks a promising back up especially as call out is £60  but the delivery of the 25th is too long I'll look at other options though

 

I've got a garage that can look at it on the 27th.

 

Posted

Do you own a multimeter or voltmeter? If so, you can test the battery and alternator functions quite easily.

 

The voltage from the battery should read about 12.5 at standstill and around 14 when the engine is running.
 

There are loads of videos on YouTube about diagnosing the source of the issue.

 

I realise this doesn’t answer your actual question, I’m sorry!

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Saxondale said:

Do you own a multimeter or voltmeter? If so, you can test the battery and alternator functions quite easily.

 

The voltage from the battery should read about 12.5 at standstill and around 14 when the engine is running.
 

There are loads of videos on YouTube about diagnosing the source of the issue.

 

I realise this doesn’t answer your actual question, I’m sorry!

Thanks

 

I have a multimeter.

 

I've had the battery checked at a garage and it seems to be ok so I think I can trust that. I'll try google about checking the alternator.

Posted
34 minutes ago, davieG said:

Looking for recommendations for a Mobile Mechanic in the Wigston area who can fix my car either today or tomorrow.

 

I'm having problems with my car. Twice this last week I've been unable to start it and had to call out Green Flag, both times they just used a a Battery Booster pack to start it as it seems like the battery had gone flat even though in one of the time it had started ok and I'd just driven 6 miles for it then not to start.

 

I've had the battery checked and that seems fine, searching google it could be the alternator.

 

I've got to a point where I daren't go anywhere in it in case it wont start and I doubt Green Flag will want to help a 3rd time. 

 

Thanks in advance

Did you check the output of the Alternator?  A simple multimeter will tell you if there is an output and if it is the correct output. The figures for your car will be available on the net somewhere (forum?) but a rule of thumb is to check the battery with nothing switched on and the voltage should be around 12v, then with engine on check again and it should be somewhere between 13v and 15v as it will be charging. It's not definitive but a good place to start. It could be as simple as a loose/corroded connection...

  • Like 2
Posted
5 minutes ago, Saxondale said:

Do you own a multimeter or voltmeter? If so, you can test the battery and alternator functions quite easily.

 

The voltage from the battery should read about 12.5 at standstill and around 14 when the engine is running.
 

There are loads of videos on YouTube about diagnosing the source of the issue.

 

I realise this doesn’t answer your actual question, I’m sorry!

You beat me to it :D

  • Like 2
Posted

Ok,

 

The car started ok :sweating:

 

I've checked the system with my meter.

 

I get 12v+ with the engine off and 14v+ with the engine running 

 

I did a check with the headlights, air con radio on and got 14v+

 

A cruder test was suggested of seeing if the headlights got brighter if I reved the engine and they did suggesting it is the alternator.

 

So if I'm understanding this it seems my alternator is not exactly knackered but well on the way to being so.

 

I think I need to find a garage that can replace it

 

Opinions welcomed.

 

Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, davieG said:

Ok,

 

The car started ok :sweating:

 

I've checked the system with my meter.

 

I get 12v+ with the engine off and 14v+ with the engine running 

 

I did a check with the headlights, air con radio on and got 14v+

 

A cruder test was suggested of seeing if the headlights got brighter if I reved the engine and they did suggesting it is the alternator.

 

So if I'm understanding this it seems my alternator is not exactly knackered but well on the way to being so.

 

I think I need to find a garage that can replace it

 

Opinions welcomed.

 

In my experience and in general, an Alternator is either working or not working (but not always!). I wonder if you have an Earth lead corroded somewhere, or a poor connection somewhere on the charging circuit.

I take it from the 'cruder' test you did that the car is an older model, not dual battery or smart charging?

It probably is the Alternator but you could rule these things out first to save money, otherwise, a good auto electrician will be the best option.

Edited by jgtuk
Spelling, doh...
  • Like 1
Posted
1 minute ago, jgtuk said:

In my experience and in general, an Alternator is either working or not working (but not always!). I wonder if you have an Earth lead corroded somewhere, or a poor connection somewhere on the charging circuit.

I take it from the 'cruder' test you did that the car is an older model, not dual battery os smart charging?

It probably is the Alternator but you could rule these things out first to save money, otherwise, a good auto electrician will be the best option.

It's a 2014 Vauxhall Meriva with just 12k miles on the clock bought in a hurry and regretted ever since although not because I've ever had problems with it.

 

I'm not aware of dual battery or even what os smart charging is. My car maintenance ended when they were taken over by electronics. I've replaced a gearbox, decoked the engine, stripped and cleaned a carburettor, replaced brakes etc but modern cars left me behind years ago.

 

The battery leads look fine but it's difficult to see any connections to the alternator.

 

I'm feeling a bit in limbo especially as an online quote to replace it was north of £650 not something you want to pay if it's ok.

Posted

I agree earth leads are a good place to start as they’re potentially an easy and cheap fix. It may be worth just having a ferret around under the bonnet and looking at the condition of any and all exposed electrical connections. Some electrical contact cleaner wouldn’t hurt if you have some.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 minutes ago, davieG said:

It's a 2014 Vauxhall Meriva with just 12k miles on the clock bought in a hurry and regretted ever since although not because I've ever had problems with it.

 

I'm not aware of dual battery or even what os smart charging is. My car maintenance ended when they were taken over by electronics. I've replaced a gearbox, decoked the engine, stripped and cleaned a carburettor, replaced brakes etc but modern cars left me behind years ago.

 

The battery leads look fine but it's difficult to see any connections to the alternator.

 

I'm feeling a bit in limbo especially as an online quote to replace it was north of £650 not something you want to pay if it's ok.

That sounds exessive to be honest. I would expect it be between £300 and £400 (guessimate) as Ive recently had mine done on a Jaguar XF which is an expensive smart type of Alternator. I'm sure a local independant will be able to do it cheaper.

  • Like 1
Posted

Which garage do you use? I always took mine to Wigston Garage, next to the Star and Garter and found them to be good. KT tyres have done a few bits for me in the past, too. 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, jgtuk said:

That sounds exessive to be honest. I would expect it be between £300 and £400 (guessimate) as Ive recently had mine done on a Jaguar XF which is an expensive smart type of Alternator. I'm sure a local independant will be able to do it cheaper.

That's reassuring thanks.

51 minutes ago, FoxesDeb said:

Which garage do you use? I always took mine to Wigston Garage, next to the Star and Garter and found them to be good. KT tyres have done a few bits for me in the past, too. 

 

 

Thanks deb, will stroll over this afternoon and see what Wigston Garage can do for us. I tried Dochertys on Central Avenues but they can't look at it until the 27th

Posted
37 minutes ago, tom27111 said:

Sounds like you need a new car Davie :whistle:

I'd like one but when you've only down 12k miles since 2014 for it's hard to justify. Been a few issues keeping me in Leicester for a while now.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
5 minutes ago, davieG said:

I'd like one but when you've only down 12k miles since 2014 for it's hard to justify. Been a few issues keeping me in Leicester for a while now.

 

I know it's my job to sell cars, but now isn't the time to buy a used car. 

 

Prices are up around 20% on used motors in the last 6 months.

 

All down to the semi-conductor shortage. 

 

The people who would be buying brand new have lead times of 6 months, so the 3 year old cars aren't coming on to the market.

 

It's actually cheaper to buy new in some instances, especially if you don't mind waiting a while.

 

We bought in a Peugeot 5008, 2 years old and paid the guy more than he bought it for. And after putting our slice of profit on it, still sold it in under a week.

 

It's absurd.

Edited by tom27111
  • Like 2
Posted
2 minutes ago, tom27111 said:

 

I know it's my job to sell cars, but now isn't the time to buy a used car. 

 

Prices are up around 20% on used motors in the last 6 months.

 

All down to the semi-conductor shortage. 

 

The people who would be buying brand new have lead times of 6 months, so the 3 year old cars aren't coming on to the market.

 

It's actually cheaper to buy new in some instances, especially if you don't mind waiting a while.

 

We bought in a Peugeot 5008, 2 years old and paid the guy more than he bought it for. And after putting our slice of profit on it, still sold it in under a week.

 

It's absurd.

Yeah I was aware of the price increases didn't really know about the lead time on new ones.

 

I thought if I bought new I'd consider an electric model but I'm not convince they been around long enough to iron out all the 'new product' issues you always get with 'new' innovations.

 

Anyway it'll have to repairs for now which are obviously also getting more expensive.

Posted
1 hour ago, davieG said:

Yeah I was aware of the price increases didn't really know about the lead time on new ones.

 

I thought if I bought new I'd consider an electric model but I'm not convince they been around long enough to iron out all the 'new product' issues you always get with 'new' innovations.

 

Anyway it'll have to repairs for now which are obviously also getting more expensive.

Having driven a few all electric cars lately, I am actually coming round to the idea of them.

 

The technology is moving at a frightening pace, so I still think you're better off waiting a couple of years. Just a personal opinion. 

 

Don't think I'll ever get used to them being so quiet though. My new boss nearly ran me over when we were leaving last night lol

 

Hope the mechanic gets you sorted. Cars are a pain in the arse :thumbup:

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, tom27111 said:

 

I know it's my job to sell cars, but now isn't the time to buy a used car. 

 

Prices are up around 20% on used motors in the last 6 months.

 

All down to the semi-conductor shortage. 

 

The people who would be buying brand new have lead times of 6 months, so the 3 year old cars aren't coming on to the market.

 

It's actually cheaper to buy new in some instances, especially if you don't mind waiting a while.

 

We bought in a Peugeot 5008, 2 years old and paid the guy more than he bought it for. And after putting our slice of profit on it, still sold it in under a week.

 

It's absurd.

So tempted to sell my 17 plate XF right now.

 

Paid £17.5k for it 13 months ago with 31,000 miles. Now done 40,000 and WBAC are offering £17.5k for it. 

 

Might just use the wife's Volvo seeing as 90% of my work is from home and we don't really need two cars anymore.

Posted
21 minutes ago, Izzy said:

So tempted to sell my 17 plate XF right now.

 

Paid £17.5k for it 13 months ago with 31,000 miles. Now done 40,000 and WBAC are offering £17.5k for it. 

 

Might just use the wife's Volvo seeing as 90% of my work is from home and we don't really need two cars anymore.

 

Don't touch WBAC. I'll HPI it for you if you want to PM me with reg, mileage and service history. That'll give CAP live prices. 

 

If they're offering that much, you could probably trade in for 19k? 

 

Phillip Schofield is a lying bastard lol

  • Haha 1

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