Any heating engineers on here?

[Raj]

7 hours ago, LVocey said:

Not a heating engineer question, but can anyone recommend a decent plumber? Hopefully relatively local to Anstey. Drop me a DM if you think you can help 

A good plumber this time 0f year?.

They are like rocking horse shit!!!

[Saxondale]

Bumping up this thread for a bit of advice please.

 

I have an Ideal Logic combi with DHW and upstairs and downstairs digital room thermostats.

 

The issue I have is that the boiler isn’t powering down after the downstairs thermostat stops demanding heat. It just carries on running, with the radiators obviously getting red hot.

 

I initially thought the problem was either the diverter valve head or the valve cartridge itself, but I’m not so sure now.

 

Switching off the boiler doesn’t reliably cure the fault. However, ramping the thermostat up high, then ultra low, then back to a sensible temperature does seem to reset it somehow. This suggests to me more of a problem with the stat, or the receiver in the boiler. 
 

Any advice on how I can narrow down the fault? Thanks in advance.

[StanSP]

41 minutes ago, Saxondale said:

Bumping up this thread for a bit of advice please.

 

I have an Ideal Logic combi with DHW and upstairs and downstairs digital room thermostats.

 

The issue I have is that the boiler isn’t powering down after the downstairs thermostat stops demanding heat. It just carries on running, with the radiators obviously getting red hot.

 

I initially thought the problem was either the diverter valve head or the valve cartridge itself, but I’m not so sure now.

 

Switching off the boiler doesn’t reliably cure the fault. However, ramping the thermostat up high, then ultra low, then back to a sensible temperature does seem to reset it somehow. This suggests to me more of a problem with the stat, or the receiver in the boiler. 
 

Any advice on how I can narrow down the fault? Thanks in advance.

Sounds very similar to an issue I had recently. 

 

We had a engineer out and it turns out it was one of the valves that needed replacing. It was 8 years old and the engineer said it can be a common, but unavoidable, issue that can spring up. 

 

We had the same issue in terms of the thermostat sending info to the boiler to fire up, but the boiler would either try to ignite and fail, or ignite and then stay on for hours on end even though the desired temp had been reached. There's a switch in the valve that was malfunctioning, so the valve had to be replaced. 

 

The way we temporarily resolved it was like you did, manually turn up the thermostat so it clicks on, wait a few moments and manually turn the temp down so the boiler would go off. 

[FoxesDeb]

37 minutes ago, Saxondale said:

Bumping up this thread for a bit of advice please.

 

I have an Ideal Logic combi with DHW and upstairs and downstairs digital room thermostats.

 

The issue I have is that the boiler isn’t powering down after the downstairs thermostat stops demanding heat. It just carries on running, with the radiators obviously getting red hot.

 

I initially thought the problem was either the diverter valve head or the valve cartridge itself, but I’m not so sure now.

 

Switching off the boiler doesn’t reliably cure the fault. However, ramping the thermostat up high, then ultra low, then back to a sensible temperature does seem to reset it somehow. This suggests to me more of a problem with the stat, or the receiver in the boiler. 
 

Any advice on how I can narrow down the fault? Thanks in advance.

If both stats are the same type the first thing to try would be swapping them over and see if the problem swaps to the other half of the house. If it's not a faulty stat it could be one of the zone valves sticking open?

[Saxondale]

On 25/01/2023 at 13:26, Saxondale said:

Bumping up this thread for a bit of advice please.

 

I have an Ideal Logic combi with DHW and upstairs and downstairs digital room thermostats.

 

The issue I have is that the boiler isn’t powering down after the downstairs thermostat stops demanding heat. It just carries on running, with the radiators obviously getting red hot.

 

I initially thought the problem was either the diverter valve head or the valve cartridge itself, but I’m not so sure now.

 

Switching off the boiler doesn’t reliably cure the fault. However, ramping the thermostat up high, then ultra low, then back to a sensible temperature does seem to reset it somehow. This suggests to me more of a problem with the stat, or the receiver in the boiler. 
 

Any advice on how I can narrow down the fault? Thanks in advance.

 

On 25/01/2023 at 14:11, StanSP said:

Sounds very similar to an issue I had recently. 

 

We had a engineer out and it turns out it was one of the valves that needed replacing. It was 8 years old and the engineer said it can be a common, but unavoidable, issue that can spring up. 

 

We had the same issue in terms of the thermostat sending info to the boiler to fire up, but the boiler would either try to ignite and fail, or ignite and then stay on for hours on end even though the desired temp had been reached. There's a switch in the valve that was malfunctioning, so the valve had to be replaced. 

 

The way we temporarily resolved it was like you did, manually turn up the thermostat so it clicks on, wait a few moments and manually turn the temp down so the boiler would go off. 

 

On 25/01/2023 at 14:12, FoxesDeb said:

If both stats are the same type the first thing to try would be swapping them over and see if the problem swaps to the other half of the house. If it's not a faulty stat it could be one of the zone valves sticking open?

Bumping an old thread here. It’s getting cold again so I’m revisiting this issue.

 

i swapped my upstairs and downstairs thermostats over, and the problem moved with the stat. Therefore, it has to be a faulty stat rather than a zone valve, right? Seems odd because I don’t really get how an electronic controller can fail, but it seems to be the case. 
 

Can anybody confirm?

[FoxesDeb]

6 minutes ago, Saxondale said:

 

 

Bumping an old thread here. It’s getting cold again so I’m revisiting this issue.

 

i swapped my upstairs and downstairs thermostats over, and the problem moved with the stat. Therefore, it has to be a faulty stat rather than a zone valve, right? Seems odd because I don’t really get how an electronic controller can fail, but it seems to be the case. 
 

Can anybody confirm?

Yes if the problem has moved with the stat, it's the stat at fault rather than the valve.

[Raj]

1 hour ago, Saxondale said:

 

 

Bumping an old thread here. It’s getting cold again so I’m revisiting this issue.

 

i swapped my upstairs and downstairs thermostats over, and the problem moved with the stat. Therefore, it has to be a faulty stat rather than a zone valve, right? Seems odd because I don’t really get how an electronic controller can fail, but it seems to be the case. 
 

Can anybody confirm?

@NAKC20 is a source of plumbing knowledge  I think

[NAKC20]

Got to be the stat. Each thermostat controls a zone valve so if you have found out the valves are working by swapping the stats it can only be that. It is quite common for a thermostat to develop a fault

[The Year Of The Fox]

On 28/10/2023 at 11:07, Saxondale said:

 

 

Bumping an old thread here. It’s getting cold again so I’m revisiting this issue.

 

i swapped my upstairs and downstairs thermostats over, and the problem moved with the stat. Therefore, it has to be a faulty stat rather than a zone valve, right? Seems odd because I don’t really get how an electronic controller can fail, but it seems to be the case. 
 

Can anybody confirm?

How long have you lived in the house? How old is the house?

 

Have you not noticed this problem before last winter? Or was last winter your first winter in the house and therefore the first time you spotted the issue?

 

 

You’ve got to go down the stat route first really, as it’s the cheapest option to rule out, but it could be that the plumber has made a bodge of the first fix plumbing if the house is new

[Saxondale]

4 hours ago, The Year Of The Fox said:

How long have you lived in the house? How old is the house?

 

Have you not noticed this problem before last winter? Or was last winter your first winter in the house and therefore the first time you spotted the issue?

 

 

You’ve got to go down the stat route first really, as it’s the cheapest option to rule out, but it could be that the plumber has made a bodge of the first fix plumbing if the house is new

Thanks mate. We’ve been in it 7.5 years (somehow) and the problem is relatively recent. Swapped the stat last night and it appears to be fixed 🤞

[Saxondale]

Bump again! I have a new, unrelated boiler problem.

 

I have an Ideal Logic Combi 30, and it’s just started losing system pressure. I’m used to topping it up once or twice a year, but it’s just started depressurising every day.

 

I noticed the pump was quite hot, so I tried bleeding it off, which hasn’t worked.

 

Next focus was the expansion vessel, which I think might be knackered. I shut off the in and out valves, drained down the boiler and pressure tested: next to no pressure. However, every time I tried to pump pressure into it, it would get to about 0.5bar and I would hear two clicks, like a pressure release valve opening and closing, and the pressure would drop right back down. The static pressure should be 0.75bar. 

 

Does this sound like a knackered expansion vessel or am I barking up the wrong tree? Could it be that my pressure gauge is not accurate? Does the expansion vessel have its own pressure release?

 

Many thanks in advance.

[The Year Of The Fox]

On 07/11/2023 at 21:44, Saxondale said:

Bump again! I have a new, unrelated boiler problem.

 

I have an Ideal Logic Combi 30, and it’s just started losing system pressure. I’m used to topping it up once or twice a year, but it’s just started depressurising every day.

 

I noticed the pump was quite hot, so I tried bleeding it off, which hasn’t worked.

 

Next focus was the expansion vessel, which I think might be knackered. I shut off the in and out valves, drained down the boiler and pressure tested: next to no pressure. However, every time I tried to pump pressure into it, it would get to about 0.5bar and I would hear two clicks, like a pressure release valve opening and closing, and the pressure would drop right back down. The static pressure should be 0.75bar. 

 

Does this sound like a knackered expansion vessel or am I barking up the wrong tree? Could it be that my pressure gauge is not accurate? Does the expansion vessel have its own pressure release?

 

Many thanks in advance.

👋 

 

I think expansion vessels on an Ideal Logic are pretty accessible if you take the front cover off

 

If you knock on the vessel with your knuckles, it should sound hollow. If it feels heavy, it’s fcuked

 

You can repressurise the expansion vessel yourself using a bike pump- it’s on a Schrader valve. 
 

Failing that, get it swapped

 

 I’ve re read your post and I’m not sure whether you’ve already tried this, when you say re pressurising the vessel, or if you meant your topping up your CH pressure 

 

 

[Suzie the Fox]

On 07/11/2023 at 21:44, Saxondale said:

Bump again! I have a new, unrelated boiler problem.

 

I have an Ideal Logic Combi 30, and it’s just started losing system pressure. I’m used to topping it up once or twice a year, but it’s just started depressurising every day.

 

I noticed the pump was quite hot, so I tried bleeding it off, which hasn’t worked.

 

Next focus was the expansion vessel, which I think might be knackered. I shut off the in and out valves, drained down the boiler and pressure tested: next to no pressure. However, every time I tried to pump pressure into it, it would get to about 0.5bar and I would hear two clicks, like a pressure release valve opening and closing, and the pressure would drop right back down. The static pressure should be 0.75bar. 

 

Does this sound like a knackered expansion vessel or am I barking up the wrong tree? Could it be that my pressure gauge is not accurate? Does the expansion vessel have its own pressure release?

 

Many thanks in advance.

Just reading this so apologies for the delay.

 

We have the same boiler and the exact same thing is happening. Its got that bad now i am topping it up daily else the heating/water isnt coming on. Plumber came round last week and showed me where the problem was. Its basically leaking, you can see the drip of water going into the condensation filter thing, which is then pushed outside. Hence why we were not seeing a pool of water where the leak is. He has told us this is quite a common fault with this boiler. It is repairable BUT its a full strip & not cheap and since its not that new anymore, have decided on a new boiler. 

 

 

[Tommy Fresh]

On 07/11/2023 at 21:44, Saxondale said:

Bump again! I have a new, unrelated boiler problem.

 

I have an Ideal Logic Combi 30, and it’s just started losing system pressure. I’m used to topping it up once or twice a year, but it’s just started depressurising every day.

 

I noticed the pump was quite hot, so I tried bleeding it off, which hasn’t worked.

 

Next focus was the expansion vessel, which I think might be knackered. I shut off the in and out valves, drained down the boiler and pressure tested: next to no pressure. However, every time I tried to pump pressure into it, it would get to about 0.5bar and I would hear two clicks, like a pressure release valve opening and closing, and the pressure would drop right back down. The static pressure should be 0.75bar. 

 

Does this sound like a knackered expansion vessel or am I barking up the wrong tree? Could it be that my pressure gauge is not accurate? Does the expansion vessel have its own pressure release?

 

Many thanks in advance.

I recently had an expansion vessel repressurised as the pressure was going too high, too quickly when the heating was on. Not sure if it can also go the other way though. Pressure was dropping when not on though, due to the pressure relief valve stopping it going too high when it was on.

[NAKC20]

On 18/12/2021 at 13:38, Raj said:

Update on my radiator issue fir information.

Another plumber tried a few things but to no avail.

Eventually had to succumb  to a powerflush.

Company recommended  was 

https://www.powerflushuk.com/

 

Who specialise in microbore pipes.

Guy was there for about 6 hours BUT IT WORKED!!!!

We are now in a hot room, hot house and all is good.

The company were exceptional throughout.

@NAKC20 thanks for your advice, remember these incase any of your customers need one for microbore.

 

Just need a small magnetic filter fitted in the new year to prevent this happening  again!!!

Went to look at a job a few weeks ago who had issues with some radiators not working. I remembered this recommendation so passed it on to the customer. They came out a couple of days ago and got a 40 year old system with a pre-historic floor standing boiler back up and running. One very happy and relieved customer who is so glad he got this company in. Certainly one to remember for anybody with similar problems. 

[Raj]

4 hours ago, NAKC20 said:

Went to look at a job a few weeks ago who had issues with some radiators not working. I remembered this recommendation so passed it on to the customer. They came out a couple of days ago and got a 40 year old system with a pre-historic floor standing boiler back up and running. One very happy and relieved customer who is so glad he got this company in. Certainly one to remember for anybody with similar problems. 

Glad you remembered.

I'll tell you where to post the commision🤣🤣🤣👍🏾