ROK On - A Korean Miniblog

[leicsmac]

Due to some interest expressed on another thread about what life is like over here, I thought I'd take the time to begin a miniblog on life and my experiences in Korea!
 
Where to begin...well, with the country itself. 
 
Until last year, when I chatted to pretty much anyone from the UK n the UK about Korea (don't use the term South Korea over here, people get annoyed) there were three things they knew to be true about this small and interesting country.
 
1. They all eat dogs.
2. They have some crazy neighbours Oop North.
3. They have one or two good football players in the Prem.
 
Of course since last year you can add PSY and his annoying catchy songs as the 4th thing to that list, but it still adds up to not much at all. 
 
(And purely for the sake of argument they only eat dog in the summer, you can only get it at certain establishments, and it tastes utterly fvkcing awful.)
 
Anyhow...basic geography is that it's about the same size as England, as has the same amount of people, but because 70% of the country is mountains that doesn't leave much room for anything else, so almost everyone lives in apartments rather than houses purely because of the premium on space. 
 
Politically its a rather interesting blend of 'get tha money' competitive capitalism and a massive, massive sense of national identity which means people (most of the time) help each other out when times are tough because, well we're all Koreans eh? Right now the current President is the first female one in Korean history, but that's only relevant in the same way Thatcher was the first female UK PM - both a lot tougher than the people around them and neither courted the female vote in any big way. She's promised a tougher line on both the neighbours and the big industrial conglomerates - the chaebol - that make up a lot of Koreas economic power, but whether both of those things actually happen remains to be seen.
 
Culturally the sense of national identity comes into things again with something called Hallyu - Korean wave, the idea of marketing Korean music, TV and film to the wider world. Truth be told it's less of a success than many Koreans believe - as borne out by most people in the UK not knowing much about it, but there are niche markets for it in a lot of countries. On the more traditional side at lot of Confucian norms - respect for elders, ceremonial exchanges at meetings and the like - are carried out with gusto still today, which can be a bit odd for someone visiting for the first time. Most Koreans though are pretty friendly and won't mind if you make a mistake or two.  
 
So....after all that, where do I fit into all this?
 
I'm one of the roughly 40,000ish people from seven different countries out here to teach TEFL, now being based down in a city called Mokpo - which if people here are familiar with F1 is the city right next to the Korean GP track. Bit of a fvcking annoyance that it's not on the calendar now as I was quite looking forward to going in 2014. But it is quite a nice port city in the winter sun, as shown by these couple of photos.
 

 

 
It's a small city about 3 and a half hours by bullet train from Seoul, which considering the size of the country is about as far away as you can get. I teach at what's called a hagwon - a fee-paying 'cram school', or basically a place where parents send their kids when they think that 8 hours education a day simply isn't enough. I teach a variety of age groups there, working from 2pm to 10pm each day. That schedule took a little bit of getting used to in terms of eating/sleeping patterns, but after a while it becomes second nature. 
 
Due to the competitive nature of the Korean education system it is one massive pressure cooker, and kids simply have to be better than their peers - so they study, and study, and study some more, mostly through rote learning in a pretty rigid way. This clearly shows  in the results that put Korea near the top of most OECD figures for education, but as I'm working in a classroom there I can also say it also shows in the amount of kids that fall asleep because it's near 10pm and they've been up since 7.30am after studying until 2am the previous day, in kids that have trouble with pretty much any kind of critical or creative thought outside the norm, and also in a rather high teen suicide rate. So...swings and roundabouts.
 
It's an interesting job, and I will say that the students here are far better in terms of behaviour than their UK counterparts. Not that you don't get the occasional little gobshite here, but it's very much the exception rather than the rule. So in terms of classroom control the job is actually pretty easy. It's just encouraging the students to do anything creative for themselves and answer any questions in other than a predetermined manner that's the problem at times. Still, I did have a brilliant conversation with some of my more advanced students on photons recently (they had to do a written task about them) so again, there are exceptions.
 
The social life here is good enough - there's a reasonable sized expat population in Mokpo, and in most of the bars the drinks are inexpensive. Sometimes as well I'll travel up to Cheongju (the place where I worked for my last stint here in 2010-2012) or to Seoul. Actually went up to Seoul last weekend and had a memorable night out with some friends. Took a few videos on the KTX bullet train, and it's amazing how the weather changes as I proceeded further north...
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_TeEYDr068

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MOQEeHdwVAw

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ocZvhtYZ5-E

 

I don't want to make this too long a first post, so I'll leave it there. If you've got any questions about life/culture etc etc over here or just want to comment, please do so. I know I can't have answered every question people on here might have about life in the Far East, the education system or the culture so please, ask me.
 
I'll update with a new post again probably this weekend, or maybe sooner.

 

Edit: Can't seem to get the Youtube embedding thingy to work - can anyone help?

[Guest MattP]

Enjoyed that Mac, keep us updated.

 

What's the general opinion regarding the North? Do they think Kim Jong Un is mad enough to send a missile or ten down?

[leicsmac]

Enjoyed that Mac, keep us updated.

 

What's the general opinion regarding the North? Do they think Kim Jong Un is mad enough to send a missile or ten down?

 

Cheers Matt, I will do so.

 

The opinion of most folk over here about their neighbours up north is actually very laid back. They've been living with them giving out these bellicose threats and trying shit for the last 60 years, so they just don't let it bother them. They're not frightened in the least about open war breaking out because they know both they and the US would inevitably win, so it would never happen in the first place. And 30 years ago there were assassination squads breaking into the Blue House to try to kill the President - if that didn't lead to open conflict, a few shells lobbed about or a ship being sunk isn't going to either.

 

So most of the time they just shrug, say the Korean equivalent of "bunch of nutters", and get on with their day.

 

The general opinion of the new guy himself is that he could well be a moderniser and allow for better ties and negotiation, but it's too early really to tell. Most of the folk over here want a better dialogue with the neighbours, but they're obviously cautious because of what's happened before.

[Vacamion]

Great post. 

 

I was thinking about doing something similar for Scotland... 

 

How do you get on with the language (if at all)?  I've read that it's fiendishly difficult for foreigners to learn.

[Alf Bentley]

Very interesting stuff, Leicsmac. Even little stuff: e.g. I didn't realise that Korea was so mountainous.

 

Some stuff that I'd be interested in hearing about in future (no rush, don't burn yourself out!):

- Korean attitudes to other nationalities: Are many of them hostile to the Japanese? How do they feel about China - and about the West?

- What do they do for kicks? Is there much of a music scene? Do they go drinking in bars much or is social life based around family and friends at home etc.?

- What about Korean politics? What sort of parties do they have - and how corrupt/democratic is their system?

- What sort of a sense of humour do they have?

- Do you have much of a command of the Korean language? If so, did you learn on the spot or in advance?

 

Oh, and more detail about the dog meal, please! To amuse French workmates in the grape harvest years ago, on a celebratory meal out, I ordered snails and frogs' legs....didn't particularly enjoy it, but ate up!

 

Nearly forgot football...How widespread is the interest and how well-informed are Koreans? Is any interest more in Korean teams, Korean players in the West or Western teams?

[Jon the Hat]

Great post. 

 

I was thinking about doing something similar for Scotland... 

 

How do you get on with the language (if at all)?  I've read that it's fiendishly difficult for foreigners to learn.

We would all like insight into the Scottish mind.  Start with Gordon Brown.  WTF?

 

Well written LeicsMac!

[Finnegan]

- Korean attitudes to other nationalities: Are many of them hostile to the Japanese? How do they feel about China - and about the West?

 

 

If it's anything like the Japanese and Taiwanese view of the Koreans then I imagine it to be pretty bitter.

 

Funny, really, the Japanese (as much as I love them) have been pretty vile historically to the Koreans but they still really aren't fans.

[Captain...]

Good read that, but there is one question that I think hasn't been answered.

 

What breed was it?

[MooseBreath]

at deleting my post

Christ this forum gets worse

[Haydos]

at deleting my post

Christ this forum gets worse

 

PM me your post? I wanna see what all this deleting drama is about and I always miss it.

[MooseBreath]

PM me your post? I wanna see what all this deleting drama is about and I always miss it.

Like any normal bloke when thinking about these adventures in far off lands, I wondered what the ladies are like over there, whether they're up for it, what they're like etc. But of course men aren't allowed to think of women in a sexual way these days because such objectification is outright sexist and misogynistic and we should be thoroughly ashamed of ourselves.

[davieG]

at deleting my post

Christ this forum gets worse

I didn't delete because i never saw it before it was removed but i would have done.

 

Maybe you should consider that this forum only exists because of the minimal advertising. Potential advertisers do not want to see that stuff written so it will inevitably be deleted from  'normal' threads where the type of language you've used would see them disappear in droves.

 

The Chebs, Celebrity and Milf threads are purposely excluded from any advertising so if you want to write that sort of stuff do it in there.

[Haydos]

Like any normal bloke when thinking about these adventures in far off lands, I wondered what the ladies are like over there, whether they're up for it, what they're like etc. But of course men aren't allowed to think of women in a sexual way these days because such objectification is outright sexist and misogynistic and we should be thoroughly ashamed of ourselves.

 

It's just a bit of a rubbish and pointless post. Why not just ask it in a normal way or actually say something funny if you're going to bring it up. Not saying I agree it should be deleted but I get why they'd be fed up with posts like that.

 

Do you go on any up/downvote sites? Half of your comments would just be downvoted into the unknown most of the time, just on here it only takes one person to be bored with your posts.

[MooseBreath]

It's just a bit of a rubbish and pointless post. Why not just ask it in a normal way or actually say something funny if you're going to bring it up. Not saying I agree it should be deleted but I get why they'd be fed up with posts like that.

Do you go on any up/downvote sites? Half of your comments would just be downvoted into the unknown most of the time, just on here it only takes one person to be bored with your posts.

How do you know how I asked it if you didn't see it? I don't really care if you find it boring tbh mate. Always worth asking what the women are like in other countries. Unless you're one of these involuntarily celebate types I suppose

[Haydos]

How do you know how I asked it if you didn't see it? I don't really care if you find it boring tbh mate. Always worth asking what the women are like in other countries. Unless you're one of these involuntarily celebate types I suppose

 

Right, I thought the bit you posted after was what actually put. I'm not really fussed either way, still think it's stupid deleting posts unless people complain about them.

[leicsmac]

Cheers for all the compliments and responses guys, glad to see it's been something people are interested in.

 

 

Great post. 

 

I was thinking about doing something similar for Scotland... 

 

How do you get on with the language (if at all)?  I've read that it's fiendishly difficult for foreigners to learn.

 

I can speak a few phrases of Korean, can write it much better than I speak it. The alphabet is very easy to learn, the spoken language less so. I'd like to study it more when I have the time.

 

Very interesting stuff, Leicsmac. Even little stuff: e.g. I didn't realise that Korea was so mountainous.

 

Some stuff that I'd be interested in hearing about in future (no rush, don't burn yourself out!):

- Korean attitudes to other nationalities: Are many of them hostile to the Japanese? How do they feel about China - and about the West?

- What do they do for kicks? Is there much of a music scene? Do they go drinking in bars much or is social life based around family and friends at home etc.?

- What about Korean politics? What sort of parties do they have - and how corrupt/democratic is their system?

- What sort of a sense of humour do they have?

- Do you have much of a command of the Korean language? If so, did you learn on the spot or in advance?

 

Oh, and more detail about the dog meal, please! To amuse French workmates in the grape harvest years ago, on a celebratory meal out, I ordered snails and frogs' legs....didn't particularly enjoy it, but ate up!

 

Nearly forgot football...How widespread is the interest and how well-informed are Koreans? Is any interest more in Korean teams, Korean players in the West or Western teams?

 

Korean view of other nationalities really varies from person to person, much like in the UK. Of course given how badly the Japanese treated the Koreans many Koreans still take a dim view of Japan and there is the odd diplomatic incident (most notably over the Liancourt Rocks), but for the most part its nationalistic bluster. Tied in with that the nationalists hate everyone who isn't Korean so Japan isn't that unique in that case. Most Koreans are pretty ambivalent towards the Chinese as a whole - some are worried about the Chinese flexing their muscles but they know they have the US backing them. As for the West, most Koreans who aren't the aforementioned loopy nationalists like hearing about America and the UK, and want to visit there themselves. The amount of information they know about the UK in particular is pretty limited, though.

 

There's a massive music movement over here called K-Pop - loads and loads of people listen to it and by it, and K-Pop stars are massive celebrities. Most young Koreans like going out to clubs and bars on the weekend, but it depends on where you are really - obviously in Seoul there's massive districts full of clubs with all different tastes in music, but in the smaller cities there's a fair bit less going on. Family life is important to Koreans, and they seem to make a point of getting together as families often - so it's a bit of both worlds, really.

 

I don't actually know much about Korean politics as a whole, but it is a fully functional Presidential democratic system in the American style, and it's actually less corrupt as people over here tend to vote issues, rather than image. There is however a certain amount of corruption involving the judicial and executive wings of Government getting too tied up with each other and therefore politicians getting away with being corrupt, but that's something the current Government is looking to tackle. Hot potato issues tend to be pretty obvious - the economy and how best to deal with the neighbours. There is two main parties that get the vast majority of the vote - one fairly centre-left, the other centre-right. The last Presidential election (held last year) was very close - 51-48% in favour of the more conservative party, with a pretty big turnout. 

 

Korean humour is very slapstick, lots of running around and falling over - they have a lot of variety shows involving funny set pieces and lots of flashing words on screen popping up - some of them are quite good.

 

Football is really popular over here, and as the Prem is shown over here on the major sport channel it's really really popular - more so than the Korean K-League. Obviously the Korean players in the Prem are followed almost religiously - they'll always show a Prem game featuring a Korean player if they can - but they show a lot of other games too, so a lot of people follow it and have a favourite Prem team. One of the lads I teach is a die-hard Chelsea fan - knows all the players.

 

Good read that, but there is one question that I think hasn't been answered.

 

What breed was it?

 

:xmaslaugh: Don't know, and if I did know I reckon I wouldn't have done it. Would have added far too much 'personality' to the meal.

 

Context for the canine dinner: I was out a summer or two ago with Korean work buddies after a long day. We stopped at a Korean restaurant that one of them recommended and in a few minutes the soju (cheap grain wine, responsible for probably the worst hangover I've ever had) was flowing. 

 

Anyway, the meat soon arrives bubbling away in its little pot. I don't recognise it, so I ask one of my coworkers. 

 

He says something in Korean and then says, "Dog." Ah.

 

I think for a moment before making an alcohol and propriety-fuelled decision of 'why not'?

 

But I won't do it again, because like I said it tasted fvcking vile - tough and far too strong tasting.

 

Like any normal bloke when thinking about these adventures in far off lands, I wondered what the ladies are like over there, whether they're up for it, what they're like etc. But of course men aren't allowed to think of women in a sexual way these days because such objectification is outright sexist and misogynistic and we should be thoroughly ashamed of ourselves.

 

Well, because it's you Moosey of course I'll answer. 

 

The ladies over here are (once you get past the potential language barrier) fantastic. However, homework is essential as cultural differences can lead to some serious misunderstandings - like waking up the morning after and then suddenly being introduced to her parents.

[Alf Bentley]

Thanks, Leicmac, all very interesting. I look forward to future instalments.

 

I'm assuming that I'll never visit Korea, but you never know, if I'm still half-fit once family duties start fading away and/or I get a sudden cash bonanza....

[Trav Le Bleu]

Great post. 

 

I was thinking about doing something similar for Scotland... 

 

How do you get on with the language (if at all)?  I've read that it's fiendishly difficult for foreigners to learn.

 

You're still speaking about Scotland there, right?

 

Very interesting post btw Leicsmac

[ADK]

Sounds a bit crap.

[MooseBreath]

Sounds a bit crap.

Kind of agree tbh. I've been to about 12 Asian countries and Korea always sounds really boring in comparison.

Good money and living standards though I suppose so if you're living in Asia it's probably one of the better places to be.

[leicsmac]

You're still speaking about Scotland there, right?

 

Very interesting post btw Leicsmac

 

Thanks Trav!

 

Thanks, Leicmac, all very interesting. I look forward to future instalments.

 

I'm assuming that I'll never visit Korea, but you never know, if I'm still half-fit once family duties start fading away and/or I get a sudden cash bonanza....

 

Cheers Alf - I'll keep things updated.

 

Kind of agree tbh. I've been to about 12 Asian countries and Korea always sounds really boring in comparison.

Good money and living standards though I suppose so if you're living in Asia it's probably one of the better places to be.

 

Well, some parts are pretty boring being out in the sticks, but then Hongdae in Seoul on a Saturday night is an absolute fvcking riot, up there with anywhere else in the world. It's not exactly high on the list of tourist destinations because it's not as well known as Japan, it's not as cheap as Thailand and 30 years ago it was a military dictatorship, but throw in the aforementioned money and living standards and it's a decent place to work. 

 

Sounds a bit crap.

 

Thanks! 

[potter3]

Culturally the sense of national identity comes into things again with something called Hallyu - Korean wave, the idea of marketing Korean music, TV and film to the wider world. Truth be told it's less of a success than many Koreans believe - as borne out by most people in the UK not knowing much about it, but there are niche markets for it in a lot of countries.

 

If it's all like K-pop and some random Korean drama I got roped into watching, I can't say I'm surprised it's not very successful.

[bovril]

Thanks for sharing Mac, I look forward to reading more. I have some friends in Daegu and I keep meaning to visit...

[Finnegan]

Korean cinema is absolutely blinding, however. Some of the best films of this century have been Korean.

[Zingari]

thanks for taking the trouble to share your experiences leicmac :xmassmile: very interesting 

 

if you see Psy say hello from me , but tell him i nearly ruptured myself doing that stupid fookin dance with the grandkids and tell him there should be some warning about not trying it at home