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Haydos

New car + insurance

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Cheers chaps, I'll give endsleigh, elephant and Admiral a try. Worth ringing them all our just do it online?

Also I nearly forgot about the named driver stuff, definitely going to see if that sorts me out. Do they not have to be living at the same address though?

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Genuinely Haydos, I owned a new 307 for three years and it was one of the worst cars I've had. It was sluggish (although it was only 1.4 diesel), the thermostat went and the trim was poor.

On the plus side... Very economical and comfortable. If I were you, I'd look at a Ford, or Nissan/Honda.

I used my mum's 307 for a while a few years back, 1.6 petrol 51 plate. Didn't have any issues with it and it felt pretty zippy to me.

A focus does seem more reliable from what I've read so providing I can find a decent deal that's top of my list.

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The missus has a peugeot and absolutely hates it. Personally i wouldnt go for a french car as i know many people with problems (but could be unlucky i guess, im sure not every french car is made badly)

 

I had a ford fiesta LX as my first car and was a great car. It got wrote off when i got hit on the M6 by a BMW driving 60 when i was at a stand still :/. The car took the force brilliantly (my air bag didnt even go off). So safety wise for me Fords are brilliant.

 

One major bit of advise i would give is to NEVER buy a Mazda RX8. Im still paying for it now and it was destroyed last November. I loved that car but god it destroyed my bank balance.

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I would strongly recommend not taking this advice. If you're going down this route you might as well lie about your name, address, the car, your age, annual mileage etc since the 'cover' you're buying is effectively worthless

Any information you submit must be accurate and becomes the basis of the contract. Make it up/lie and don't be surprised if the insurance company avoid any claims or just the contract itself - and potentially keep hold of your insurance premium. I believe there is also a may now for them to blacklist you via the MIAFTR / MIB / CUE.

Might save you a few quid though.

Where's the rolling eyes smiley?

 

 

Yep.

 

I've worked in and around insurance for 20 years and the best advice I can give anyone is just don't tell lies when taking out insurance to try to get a lower premium. It is a massive gamble.

 

If they void your policy for fraudulent misrepresentation or fraudulent non disclosure, it will fvck you up for getting insurance in future. If you crash into someone and your policy is voided, the Third Party insurer will go after you and sue you for their outlays.

 

Insurers are getting much better at detecting fraudulent misrepresentations because they have more sophisticated technology and more information at their disposal than they ever had before. They usually accept what you say when the policy is taken out and you are paying them and only review everything and check it is true when a claim is submitted.

 

Every claim that is submitted goes through a screening process designed to root out any of the usual reasons that would allow them to decline claims and void policies. Some of them use voice stress analysis to detect whether the person they are speaking to might be lying to them and pass on any suspect cases to special investigations teams.

 

They still find loads of this stuff every year, because some people still think it is worth trying to save a few quid on a policy which, if voided, could cost them thousands.

 

In my experience, they are pretty brutal. After all, every claim they kick out is money saved for them.

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I've got a Peugeot 206, since I've had it all I've had is problems. I've had it a year and so far I've had the exhaust back box changed, battery changed, brake problems and two wheels replaced. I drove to Donington Market not too long ago, half way there the engine light came up. Still runs fine but it's just a matter of time for it to break down. Trip to the garage I reckon.

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Is that misrepresenting though? If the other insurer gives you a statement of no claims bonus?

 

Endsleigh for example, do a deal where you get 1 years NCB after 6 months and then 2 years NCB after 18 months.

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I've got a Peugeot 206, since I've had it all I've had is problems. I've had it a year and so far I've had the exhaust back box changed, battery changed, brake problems and two wheels replaced. I drove to Donington Market not too long ago, half way there the engine light came up. Still runs fine but it's just a matter of time for it to break down. Trip to the garage I reckon.

 

Trip to the scrapyard more like

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I've got a Peugeot 206, since I've had it all I've had is problems. I've had it a year and so far I've had the exhaust back box changed, battery changed, brake problems and two wheels replaced. I drove to Donington Market not too long ago, half way there the engine light came up. Still runs fine but it's just a matter of time for it to break down. Trip to the garage I reckon.

 

How old is it?/How many miles?

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I feel the need to mention my Ford focus.  It was my second one in fact.  I bought it from Car Giant in 2005 for £4,750.  Serviced it about 3 times in 9 years, took it from 70k miles to 130k miles and the thing wouldn't die.  Eventually I have scrapped it and bought my new car, but it wouldnt give me the excuse.  Kept going.  and going.  Bloody thing!

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Does 650 for a 1.4 for someone who's 24 with 0 years no claims sound alright?

Last time I had a car it costs £500-550 to insure. I was 24-25 and had 1 year no claims. That was in London, and on a car that was insurance group 3/50 (1/20 in the old system). It was a Peugeot 107 and I had no problems with it, although I only had it a couple of years. I'd written off a car about 2 years before but that only added about £30 lol

If you're not sure then follow these tips

http://www.moneysavingexpert.com/car-insurance/

Edit: Mine was with Admiral. They quoted me about £900 for a renewal, I followed the tips above, and got a quote from Elephant for £500-550 (which is, basically, the same company as Admiral). I rang Admiral, told them about the Elephant quote, and they took the quote reference and matched it on the spot lol

Also, I had my mum, dad, and sister as named drivers which helped. They lived in the Midlands/Berkshire while I was swanning around London but that's fine.

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How old is it?/How many miles?

Tbh mate it's on its last legs. It's got to be at least 10+ years old, can't remember exactly how many miles but I'd guess at about 150,000 miles.

There not bad cars to be honest.

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I've been looking for my first car recently despite not yet being passed. I was being very sensible up until recently when I started looking at C Class's. If I'm being realistic I think I'll get an Astra or an A3 though.

 

Will my insurance quotes be any different due to the fact I'll be 23 when I first pass & not 17?

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Anything over a 56 plate and the days of diesels being noisy has long gone.

 

Agreed, there's nothing wrong with diesels and there's a time that I never thought I'd say that. A decent sized engine is generally pretty nippy and can save you alot of money if you're going to be doing alot of miles. I love my current diesel, it's a great mix of power and economy.

 

 

Yeah I know! Literally, first year of driving I paid £1400, last year it dropped to around £650 and yesterday I was quoted at just under £400. Thought, I'll have a bit of that. 

 

To be fair, I am away at Uni most of the time so I only drive when I go back home. Even though people think I'm crazy for paying it while I'm not using it, I'm not going to hit anybody, and then claim, when it's sat on my drive!

 

Very reasonable price indeed. If you can, why not build up your no claims now so you can either be paying alot less after uni or perhaps get something a little nicer afterwards too.

 

I paid around £780 going into my 3rd year of driving when I was 21 with 2 years NCB. That was for a 1.8T Golf though, which was great fun and worth it IMO. :)

 

 

 

Looks decent to me, I'd certainly suggest going to look at any cars with somebody who knows exactly what they're doing and carrying out a HPI check. Could save you alot of money and hassle in the future.

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I've been looking for my first car recently despite not yet being passed. I was being very sensible up until recently when I started looking at C Class's. If I'm being realistic I think I'll get an Astra or an A3 though.

 

Will my insurance quotes be any different due to the fact I'll be 23 when I first pass & not 17?

 

They'll be a lot better at 23 than 17. You'll still have to pay a lot to insure an A3 though.

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I'd definitely recommend a HPI check. My dad went to buy my sister a Mini back in September car was really nice, decent price etc. Ran a check on it and it turned out it still had 18 months finance left on it.

If the owner didn't pay the remaining finance off and we had bought the car it could/would have been reposed and my dad would have lost £10k.

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Agreed, there's nothing wrong with diesels and there's a time that I never thought I'd say that. A decent sized engine is generally pretty nippy and can save you alot of money if you're going to be doing alot of miles. I love my current diesel, it's a great mix of power and economy.

 

 

 

Very reasonable price indeed. If you can, why not build up your no claims now so you can either be paying alot less after uni or perhaps get something a little nicer afterwards too.

 

I paid around £780 going into my 3rd year of driving when I was 21 with 2 years NCB. That was for a 1.8T Golf though, which was great fun and worth it IMO. :)

 

 

 

Looks decent to me, I'd certainly suggest going to look at any cars with somebody who knows exactly what they're doing and carrying out a HPI check. Could save you alot of money and hassle in the future.

What's a HPI check and how do i do one? I feel lost now. If I'm buying from a dealership will there not be checks they've done to prevent dodgy finance and whatnot?

And in regards to the condition of the car will that not be apparent from the service history? Especially if I get it serviced by them before I buy? 

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I'd definitely recommend a HPI check. My dad went to buy my sister a Mini back in September car was really nice, decent price etc. Ran a check on it and it turned out it still had 18 months finance left on it.

If the owner didn't pay the remaining finance off and we had bought the car it could/would have been reposed and my dad would have lost £10k.

 

Meant to tag you in on the above post as well.

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Meant to tag you in on the above post as well.

A HPI check shows if the car has got outstanding finance on it, if it's ever been written off or the mileage clocked.

If it's from a dealership you shouldn't have to worry about doing one as they should have checked all that. Though it does only cost around £10 on the net to check. Worth doing just to have a bit of peace of mind.

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A HPI check shows if the car has got outstanding finance on it, if it's ever been written off or the mileage clocked.

If it's from a dealership you shouldn't have to worry about doing one as they should have checked all that. Though it does only cost around £10 on the net to check. Worth doing just to have a bit of peace of mind.

 

Is it instant? As in could I go see it, do this thing online and have it back and then buy it? And do you have to fill in loads of info or is it done on the reg?

 

Cheers by the way, big help.

 

EDIT: Also should I just ask the dealership "Has this been HPI checked?/Do you have the HPI docs?/etc"

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Currently eyeing up a Peugeot 207 1.4 with 27,000 on the clock for £4000 from a dealership. Looks to be a very good deal from the condition and milage but I'm a bit wary of Peugeots from what I've read online. Lots of good reviews but also a number of people that seem to have problems with theirs.

So Peugeot drivers, would you recommend?

 

 

They are prone to electrical issues but, to be honest, all cars are at risk of some sort of failure. The 207s are nice cars to be fair.

 

If you want minimum risk of breakdown but also minimum satisfaction or cool, spend £4k on something Japanese.

 

Does 650 for a 1.4 for someone who's 24 with 0 years no claims sound alright?

 

Yes.

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A HPI check shows if the car has got outstanding finance on it, if it's ever been written off or the mileage clocked.

If it's from a dealership you shouldn't have to worry about doing one as they should have checked all that. Though it does only cost around £10 on the net to check. Worth doing just to have a bit of peace of mind.

 

 

Is it instant? As in could I go see it, do this thing online and have it back and then buy it? And do you have to fill in loads of info or is it done on the reg?

 

Cheers by the way, big help.

 

EDIT: Also should I just ask the dealership "Has this been HPI checked?/Do you have the HPI docs?/etc"

 

Pentagon will have HPId it. If you ask to see the report, they will show you. It also shows any insurance write-offs etc.

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