Our system detected that your browser is blocking advertisements on our site. Please help support FoxesTalk by disabling any kind of ad blocker while browsing this site. Thank you.
Jump to content
 Share
Hollism

DIY/Home Improvement Thread

By Hollism, in General Chat

Recommended Posts

yorkie1999

yorkie1999

Posted
Posted
On 11/05/2023 at 21:33, Bellend Sebastian said:

While we're on the subject of sealants, is it actually possible to clean mould off of silicon bathroom sealant or do you have to replace it?

Yes, with white vinegar and baking soda mixed, rub it on and leave it for 20 minutes then wipe it off but you have to tackle the real problem which is caused by a lack of ventilation so you need a decent extractor fan, and if you can’t do that, wipe down with a cloth after taking a bath or shower.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
kenny

kenny

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, yorkie1999 said:

I feel the same after buying a cement mixer a couple of days ago, best bit of kit I’ve owned.

We have used ours so many times you don't realise how handy they are.

 

I think it's time ours went back on eBay though, the house is done and it's a big lump to keep in the shed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Bellend Sebastian

Bellend Sebastian

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, yorkie1999 said:

Yes, with white vinegar and baking soda mixed, rub it on and leave it for 20 minutes then wipe it off but you have to tackle the real problem which is caused by a lack of ventilation so you need a decent extractor fan, and if you can’t do that, wipe down with a cloth after taking a bath or shower.

I think I've got both so I'll give that a go, ta. We've got an extractor fan but with four of us using the shower the chances of it getting wiped down regularly are slim to none

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Big Dave

Big Dave

Posted
Posted
On 11/05/2023 at 21:33, Bellend Sebastian said:

While we're on the subject of sealants, is it actually possible to clean mould off of silicon bathroom sealant or do you have to replace it?

I use kitchen roll / loo roll, soaked in bleach and placed on the sealant.  Leave a few hours, remove and wash off.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
yorkie1999

yorkie1999

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, Raj said:

Presume your a car retailer then!😁

Trip to halfords it is...

Ha. It does work though. I seem to come up with loads of daft ideas, I’ve got one of those window wipers scraper things to wipe down the shower screen and a dish scrubber to keep the shower base clean, silly things but they solve a problem.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 3 months later...
tom27111

tom27111

Posted
Posted

Do we have any plumbers on here, or anyone with a bit of knowledge about it?

 

I can turn my hand to most things, but plumbing is not one of them. I'd rather mess about with electrics (thanks @Strokes) than fiddle with some pipes. Ooh err!

 

Basically, renovating the bathroom. Have a 60cm radiator and looking to replace it with a chrome heated towel rail.

 

I need to tile behind the current radiator. 

 

Is there a way that I can safely remove it myself and cap it off to allow me to tile before I get the towel rail fitted?

 

Or is this a big no no as it's technically a gas system and I need a Gas Safe engineer to do it for me?

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Strokes

Strokes

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, tom27111 said:

Do we have any plumbers on here, or anyone with a bit of knowledge about it?

 

I can turn my hand to most things, but plumbing is not one of them. I'd rather mess about with electrics (thanks @Strokes) than fiddle with some pipes. Ooh err!

 

Basically, renovating the bathroom. Have a 60cm radiator and looking to replace it with a chrome heated towel rail.

 

I need to tile behind the current radiator. 

 

Is there a way that I can safely remove it myself and cap it off to allow me to tile before I get the towel rail fitted?

 

Or is this a big no no as it's technically a gas system and I need a Gas Safe engineer to do it for me?

You can put isolators on the end of the pipes then tile.

that’s what I would do, then assess if you need a plumber to take from there. That’s what I did in my old house.

 

Im in a new build now and it’s all poly pipe and push fit fixings. I just do it all myself here.

Edited by Strokes
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
tom27111

tom27111

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, Strokes said:

You can put isolators on the end of the pipes then tile.

that’s what I would do, then assess if you need a plumber to take from there. That’s what I did in my old house.

 

Im in a new build now and it’s all poly pipe and push fit fixings. I just do it all myself here.

 

Thanks mate. I wasn't fishing for advice from you on this, I got slated the last time I used your hashtag for plumbing lol

 

You're my go to wiring guy for lights!

 

@Izzy is right though #strokesknows :thumbup:

 

Is it just as simple as isolating the pipes? Do I not need to bridge the two pipes that go in to the radiator to keep the flow of the whole system? 

 

Basically, take off the radiator and effectively replace it with a flexi hose? 

 

Told you I'm clueless! 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Big Dave

Big Dave

Posted
Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, tom27111 said:

Do we have any plumbers on here, or anyone with a bit of knowledge about it?

 

I can turn my hand to most things, but plumbing is not one of them. I'd rather mess about with electrics (thanks @Strokes) than fiddle with some pipes. Ooh err!

 

Basically, renovating the bathroom. Have a 60cm radiator and looking to replace it with a chrome heated towel rail.

 

I need to tile behind the current radiator. 

 

Is there a way that I can safely remove it myself and cap it off to allow me to tile before I get the towel rail fitted?

 

Or is this a big no no as it's technically a gas system and I need a Gas Safe engineer to do it for me?

Simply turn the radiators off at the valves. You may need a pair of pliers for this. Once turned off, just drain down the radiator and remove.  This is the nuts between the radiator and the valve, but attached to the radiator. You will need 2 wrenches for this. It will be fine with the valves turned off. No need to cap off. 
No need to put a connecting pipe in - they are simply branches taken from the main circulating system.

Edited by Big Dave
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
tom27111

tom27111

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Big Dave said:

Simply turn the radiators off at the valves. You may need a pair of pliers for this. Once turned off, just drain down the radiator and remove.  This is the nuts between the radiator and the valve, but attached to the radiator. You will need 2 wrenches for this. It will be fine with the valves turned off. No need to cap off. 
No need to put a connecting pipe in - they are simply branches taken from the main circulating system.

 

So would it then be as simple as connecting the new heated towel rail and basically reversing what you just said?

 

And again, should this really be done by a Gas Safe engineer for legal reasons? Or as I'm not actually tinkering with the boiler, is it OK? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Big Dave

Big Dave

Posted
Posted

Drain the rad down by placing a tray or bowl under one side of the radiator. You can use some foil to make a bit of a funnel / drip tray. Slowly loosen the nut between the rad and the valve and some water will come out. As this slows, open the bleed valve to allow air in and empty. When empty then remove. Be careful taking off as there will be a small amount of horrible black water inside.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Big Dave

Big Dave

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, tom27111 said:

 

So would it then be as simple as connecting the new heated towel rail and basically reversing what you just said?

 

And again, should this really be done by a Gas Safe engineer for legal reasons? Or as I'm not actually tinkering with the boiler, is it OK? 

You’re fine to do it yourself. However.

The trickiest part is fitting the radiator at the right height to marry up the valves with the radiator.

If you are having a new radiator, you may wish to have new valves (possibly chrome to match), or a TRV fitted.  This will either need pipes freezing or the system draining down. Draining down is simple, but need to consider putting inhibitor back into the system.

Also, whichever way you do it, you will need to fill and pressurise the system after fitting the new one.  There is usually a small tap and pressure gauge under your boiler or in the airing cupboard.  Then bleed all of the rads.

 

Dead easy to remove the radiator, but if you’re not confident, may be worth using a plumber to fit the new one. It is a very simple job for a plumber.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
tom27111

tom27111

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Big Dave said:

You’re fine to do it yourself. However.

The trickiest part is fitting the radiator at the right height to marry up the valves with the radiator.

If you are having a new radiator, you may wish to have new valves (possibly chrome to match), or a TRV fitted.  This will either need pipes freezing or the system draining down. Draining down is simple, but need to consider putting inhibitor back into the system.

Also, whichever way you do it, you will need to fill and pressurise the system after fitting the new one.  There is usually a small tap and pressure gauge under your boiler or in the airing cupboard.  Then bleed all of the rads.

 

Dead easy to remove the radiator, but if you’re not confident, may be worth using a plumber to fit the new one. It is a very simple job for a plumber.

 

Thanks mate, really appreciate all of that :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Strokes

Strokes

Posted
Posted
21 minutes ago, tom27111 said:

 

Thanks mate. I wasn't fishing for advice from you on this, I got slated the last time I used your hashtag for plumbing lol

 

You're my go to wiring guy for lights!

 

@Izzy is right though #strokesknows :thumbup:

 

Is it just as simple as isolating the pipes? Do I not need to bridge the two pipes that go in to the radiator to keep the flow of the whole system? 

 

Basically, take off the radiator and effectively replace it with a flexi hose? 

 

Told you I'm clueless! 

Yeah don’t worry about it, the heating doesn’t need to go on for another 6-8 weeks. Who cares if a a disused system returns flow until then?

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
tom27111

tom27111

Posted
Posted
Just now, Strokes said:

Yeah don’t worry about it, the heating doesn’t need to go on for another 6-8 weeks. Who cares if a a disused system returns flow until then?

 

Mate, I've had to fully disconnect the toilet and raise it slightly to get the tiles underneath. 

 

Thankfully, we've got a full bathroom downstairs with toilet and shower. (The kids and the Mrs have all decided how much they love a bath in the last 36 hours)

 

But I really need to reconnect that upstairs loo this weekend after the floor is grouted and I've tiled behind the tank lol

 

My Mrs has the best ideas.

 

Oh, I'll be changing the light fitting at some point, probably the last thing I'll do in there, so keep an eye out :D

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...