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Posted
2 hours ago, The Year Of The Fox said:

Well, if you’re asking whether the pump will circulate without the boiler actually firing up, then yes, it should be possible. 
 

Personally, I’d stick the heating on too though, and if problems with your heating system were made aware to me prior to the boiler swap, I might’ve come round a couple of weeks prior to stick the cleaner in and get it circulating properly.

 

I do sympathise though with any plumber in this sort of situation.
 

Using that cleaner and flushing does not guarantee a problem free heating system at all. Particularly with microbore as it’s renowned for clogging up, and obviously the bore of the pipe is much smaller than 15mm.

 

He might’ve done a flush properly, he may not have, but you still may have had this problem- Plumbing is shit
 

Im assuming you’ve checked all lock shields are open on the radiators that aren’t working? And that TRVs if fitted are fully open and the pins under the head aren’t seized? Have you temporarily turned off all the rads that are getting hot, and tried to force the water through the rads that aren’t working? (Potential air lock) 

 

Edit- you’d be able to be certain you’ve a blocked pipe by taking one of the rads off after isolating it on the valves. Once the rads removed you can carefully open one valve, into an ice cream tub or something. The water should blast/spray out if it’s not blocked. Do the same with each valve.

 

It still doesn’t mean the guys not flushed it out properly though, and again, I do feel for a plumber in this sort of scenario. I understand a flush etc will have been part of the quote, and your comeback will be that he’s not done the work as quoted. Believe me though, it doesn’t necessarily mean that the lack of flush has caused this. Like I say, plumbing is shite 

I can vouch for that. I stopped installing boilers 3-4 years ago and this was one of the reasons. Like you say you can test the heating prior to fitting the new boiler and then point out any problems to the customer but this doesnt mean than a problem wont occur after the work even though you have followed the instructions and regulations to the letter. Another common thing was if you took out a cylinder and tanks and fitted a combi boiler the extra pressure on the system could cause rad valves to leak or it could split the seem at the bottom of the rad. Even the hot water supply in the property could have issues a few weeks or a couple of months after. Even pointing this out to the customer doesnt mean getting the call saying my tap is now dripping quite bad or my 30 year old shower is very stiff. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, FoyleFox said:

The system and rads were all working fine prior to the swap, they all got hot every time the heating fired up. They all worked on install day and for a few days after. 

The only issue we had was with the boiler fan, old age so didn't always fire up and, given the age of the boiler, it wasn't worth just replacing the fan.  

 

We turn off the rads to get the non-working ones working, that usually sorts it but, then the next time the heating fires up, they don't always work. Fine yesterday morning, but not in the evening.  We've been doing this for over 2 weeks now. The plumber came back 3 weeks ago (to look at the leak damage) and rebalanced them, for the second time, but the problem persists.

 

With the flush, we know from our energy stats the heating only went on 30 minutes before they left, so, hoped it needed to go on to circulate the chemical. If the pump can do it, that's killed that theory. Said plumber has given different and vague answers regarding the flush process he did, so it's adding to our scepticism and debris would explain the rad issue. It was just a theory. I've just emailed the quotes for the replacement / repair work required in the utility, with an update the rads aren't working again. I'll await their next plan. Cheers for the advice.

The pump won’t circulate the water if the boiler is off.

 

You’d have to put the boiler stat on very low (as well as programmer and room stat), to get the pump to run, but not to feel any heat really coming out of the rads. 
 

You don’t really get any debris from a boiler install- flux residue Eg. Unless the installers been careless and has got brick debris into the 22mm flow and returns at the boiler when maybe drilling out the new flue hole.
 

Sounds to me like when draining down he’s dragged some crap further down the pipes, from the radiators upstairs or even from your header tank should you have (had) one. Both instances are pretty much unavoidable. 
 

Clearly if you’re getting heat to the problematic rads when turning others off, then the pipes aren’t completely blocked. 
 

Why not buy some x400 and stick it in your boiler filter, and give it a run for a couple of weeks?
 

Has the boiler filter been checked since installation to see how much crap has been collected already? If the filter is really bad it’s a good indication of it being sludge in the pipes that may be preventing your rads working properly.
 

Sorry it took so long to reply, I’m still on a 10 post a day limit here 😂

Edited by The Year Of The Fox
Posted
4 hours ago, The Year Of The Fox said:

The pump won’t circulate the water if the boiler is off.

 

You’d have to put the boiler stat on very low (as well as programmer and room stat), to get the pump to run, but not to feel any heat really coming out of the rads. 
 

You don’t really get any debris from a boiler install- flux residue Eg. Unless the installers been careless and has got brick debris into the 22mm flow and returns at the boiler when maybe drilling out the new flue hole.
 

Sounds to me like when draining down he’s dragged some crap further down the pipes, from the radiators upstairs or even from your header tank should you have (had) one. Both instances are pretty much unavoidable. 
 

Clearly if you’re getting heat to the problematic rads when turning others off, then the pipes aren’t completely blocked. 
 

Why not buy some x400 and stick it in your boiler filter, and give it a run for a couple of weeks?
 

Has the boiler filter been checked since installation to see how much crap has been collected already? If the filter is really bad it’s a good indication of it being sludge in the pipes that may be preventing your rads working properly.
 

Sorry it took so long to reply, I’m still on a 10 post a day limit here 😂

Zero units of gas were consumed between 8am and 3pm, which I assume (always dangerous, I appreciate) some would be, even if the stat was on low to run the pump? We can see the heating was first switched on just after 3pm and they left at 3.30pm

 

The installer was careless enough not to install the valves correctly, causing a leak and resulting in half the utility room needing to be replaced, so, I couldn't rule that out. And, changing his story on what he did or didn't do has created a significant lack of trust. It may well have been flushed properly and it's just unfortunate but he's not explained anything adequately enough to believe that.

 

We didn't have a header tank and it definitely wasn't from the upstairs radiators, as it's a bungalow lol

 

No, it's not a complete block, it's intermittent, which is more frustrating, you never know if you'll be waking up warm or not. And, having played boiler roulette with the old one's fan not always firing up, we hoped a new one would eradicate the will it/won't it work situation.

 

Checking the filter is now on today's to do list. Adding some X400 is a very good idea, although I don't want to do anything too much to it as I've reported it again and especially until they've settled up for the utility repairs, as there is several £k of damage to fix.

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Boarded my loft out and fitted a pull down ladder. Loads of storage space now.  Also put lighting up there on a push to break switch, so it turns off when the hatch is closed.

 

To maximise headroom I used the silver quilt stuff, which is more expensive but can be stapled between the rafters to create a thermal barrier. The insulation i removed just added to the stuff on the sides. Also put shelving between rafters.

 

 

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Edited by simFox
  • Like 2
Posted

With 4 kids and a wife who collects shoes, we were in much need of some shoe storage. So I put a hatch in the staircase. (Carpet won't be changed until the kids grow up, they've already ruined the living room, I know it's terrible)

 

 

 

 

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  • Like 4
Posted
32 minutes ago, simFox said:

Another push to break with a fused spur, carpeted the floor and boarded it out and added a shoe rack. 

 

 

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That's bloody genius - what a great idea.

 

Nice socks btw :D

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Izzy said:

That's bloody genius - what a great idea.

 

Nice socks btw :D

 

Where's the safety boots? You know, health and safety on a construction site. 

Posted

We (well, Mrs Para) have decided to take the bath out and have a walk-in shower instead. The plan is to put in these new fangled MDF panels instead of tiles in the shower. 

 

Has anyone else done this? Are they any good? Are they watertight? Easy to install? (I won't be doing it myself but I am wondering about the cost if an installer does it).

 

Were looking at a brand called Fibo. I've done the usual Google search for reviews but none seem very conclusive

Posted
On 05/03/2025 at 06:02, The Year Of The Fox said:

Sorry it took so long to reply, I’m still on a 10 post a day limit here 😂

You and your wild plumbing based conspiracy theories... :ph34r:

  • Haha 1
Posted
21 hours ago, simFox said:

Another push to break with a fused spur, carpeted the floor and boarded it out and added a shoe rack. 

 

 

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Shoes out, four kids in... 

Posted
23 minutes ago, brookfox said:

Feel a bit useless posting this vs other people’s successes… but anyone know how to change these bulbs?!

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Could be a sealed unit. You'll know more when you get it out. 

 

Just pull it out, there will be 2 springs that hold it in, they'll become apparent as it comes out. Will be a choc block for the wiring, so just unscrew and put on the bench. Front might screw off to get bulb out, otherwise get a new unit by checking the id marks (serial, part number etc)

 

You can tidy up the hole by fitting some perspex plates between the light and the ceiling, just measure and search for a size on eBay. 

 

Scrape off the over paint. That would drive me mad. I disconnect all my sockets, switches and fittings if painting and get behind them.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 09/03/2025 at 15:03, brookfox said:

Feel a bit useless posting this vs other people’s successes… but anyone know how to change these bulbs?!

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First try and push it in then see if it turns anti clockwise. 

 

Otherwise you'll have to pull the unit out if the ceiling then change it.

  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Grebfromgrebland said:

First try and push it in then see if it turns anti clockwise. 

 

Otherwise you'll have to pull the unit out if the ceiling then change it.

Thanks managed to pull it out and looks like the whole unit needs replacing. The current unit is discontinued and overall looks like it will be a lot more expensive than just replacing the bulb. Not sure what the advantage is?!

 

Sitting in my kitchen now and there’s 18 of them in here which will eventually need replacing 😫

Posted
1 hour ago, brookfox said:

Thanks managed to pull it out and looks like the whole unit needs replacing. The current unit is discontinued and overall looks like it will be a lot more expensive than just replacing the bulb. Not sure what the advantage is?!

 

Sitting in my kitchen now and there’s 18 of them in here which will eventually need replacing 😫

@Strokes Might be able to help

Posted
1 hour ago, brookfox said:

Thanks managed to pull it out and looks like the whole unit needs replacing. The current unit is discontinued and overall looks like it will be a lot more expensive than just replacing the bulb. Not sure what the advantage is?!

 

Sitting in my kitchen now and there’s 18 of them in here which will eventually need replacing 😫

You can normally take the unit apart to change the bulb. Can you unscrew the housing so the front where the paint is?

  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, Grebfromgrebland said:

You can normally take the unit apart to change the bulb. Can you unscrew the housing so the front where the paint is?

It’s normally got a brushed aluminium cover so you can’t see the paint bit. Not relevant, but don’t want people thinking I’d sleep at night with that mess on my ceiling!

 

Will look tonight thanks. Pulled it out and it was obviously attached by a wire. At this point I panicked and pushed it back in for fear of electrocuting myself! Will turn the fuse off and try and get it down for a better look.

Posted
10 hours ago, brookfox said:

It’s normally got a brushed aluminium cover so you can’t see the paint bit. Not relevant, but don’t want people thinking I’d sleep at night with that mess on my ceiling!

 

Will look tonight thanks. Pulled it out and it was obviously attached by a wire. At this point I panicked and pushed it back in for fear of electrocuting myself! Will turn the fuse off and try and get it down for a better look.

If there's some identifying marks. You might find a you tube video on how to take the bulb out. 

  • Like 1
Posted
On 08/03/2025 at 19:56, Parafox said:

We (well, Mrs Para) have decided to take the bath out and have a walk-in shower instead. The plan is to put in these new fangled MDF panels instead of tiles in the shower. 

 

Has anyone else done this? Are they any good? Are they watertight? Easy to install? (I won't be doing it myself but I am wondering about the cost if an installer does it).

 

Were looking at a brand called Fibo. I've done the usual Google search for reviews but none seem very conclusive

I don't think I used Fibo, but I did use showerboards for our bathroom. I was getting quotes of 12k so it motivated me to do it myself. 

 

The boards were really easy, but they are also easy to cock up if you can't cut straight,  so I don't know what tools you have or how confident you are. But they were very quick to put up. A decent circular saw and good tressels made it easy.

 

I kept a detailed spreadsheet and I ended up spending just over 5k, but I bought 2k in tools, but I don't mind spending money on decent tools. It was the dewalt cordless goodies that bumped that up. 

 

The number of trips I made to b&q, wickes and the local builders merchant had my head spinning.

 

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  • Like 3
Posted
6 hours ago, simFox said:

I don't think I used Fibo, but I did use showerboards for our bathroom. I was getting quotes of 12k so it motivated me to do it myself. 

 

The boards were really easy, but they are also easy to cock up if you can't cut straight,  so I don't know what tools you have or how confident you are. But they were very quick to put up. A decent circular saw and good tressels made it easy.

 

I kept a detailed spreadsheet and I ended up spending just over 5k, but I bought 2k in tools, but I don't mind spending money on decent tools. It was the dewalt cordless goodies that bumped that up. 

 

The number of trips I made to b&q, wickes and the local builders merchant had my head spinning.

 

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Looks great. Good job, well done.

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