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Finnegan

Professional gardeners?

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1 minute ago, Line-X said:

Tried it on the ivy roots in my garden. Negligible effect. 

 

It's not for use on roots.  It's a systemic weedkiller.  in other words.... you spray the foliage & then the plant does the rest of the work, drawing the poison to the roots/rest of the plant.

 

Also.  It will only work when the plant is actively growing - during the warmer months of the year (spring to autumn)

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1 minute ago, pSinatra said:

 

It's not for use on roots.  It's a systemic weedkiller.  in other words.... you spray the foliage & then the plant does the rest of the work, drawing the poison to the roots/rest of the plant.

 

Also.  It will only work when the plant is actively growing - during the warmer months of the year (spring to autumn)

You'll probably find if sprayed, the weed killer can just rolls off leaves with a glossy appearance, like Ivy.

I once read you need to crush many of the leaves first, causing fractures that enable the weed killer to seep in and do it's work.

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I've used creosote quite effectively if you're down to the stump, drill a few holes, pour it in and then cover the stump with some black plastic sheeting.

 

I've found out I'm allergic to ivy after clearing a load from the back of a garage at a house I bought a few years ago, my face was all swollen and I could hardly open my eyes. 

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2 minutes ago, Free Falling Foxes said:

You'll probably find if sprayed, the weed killer can just rolls off leaves with a glossy appearance, like Ivy.

I once read you need to crush many of the leaves first, causing fractures that enable the weed killer to seep in and do it's work.

 

I can see that possibly helping, but I'd say that it's really not necessary.  More is not always merrier.  If the mist is fine & it's a fairly warm day, it should dry onto the foliage quickly enough.

 

I've seen people going over & over the same weed, bathing it in weedkiller.  It is no more effective than if I give the same weed a quick blast.  The results are exactly the same.

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12 minutes ago, davieG said:

I've used creosote quite effectively if you're down to the stump, drill a few holes, pour it in and then cover the stump with some black plastic sheeting.

 

I've found out I'm allergic to ivy after clearing a load from the back of a garage at a house I bought a few years ago, my face was all swollen and I could hardly open my eyes. 

 

I was going to say creosote.  It's brilliant, but you can't get hold of it anymore.

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3 hours ago, pSinatra said:

 

It's not for use on roots.  It's a systemic weedkiller.  in other words.... you spray the foliage & then the plant does the rest of the work, drawing the poison to the roots/rest of the plant.

 

Also.  It will only work when the plant is actively growing - during the warmer months of the year (spring to autumn)

Thanks for that - I might try again. I was purely following the instructions I was given, those provided and the information that I had gathered which was to apply it at the base of the root. 

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Another diversion for this Thread.

 

A long shot I guess.

 

So I've got a hedge that's approx. 120ft long and approx. 7ft high and I need someone to cut it on one side and a trim along the top.

 

The side that needs cutting runs along side the pavement, I'm not looking for a exhibition finish just so that the pavement is more accessible.

 

I've tried search the web for hedge trimming company but they're nearly all tree surgeons which seems a bot over the top for my needs.

 

So if anyone fancies giving it a go or knows someone who could do it then let me know. probably need a petrol trimmer.

 

I'm in Wigston Magna and at home most of the time.

 

 

 

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55 minutes ago, davieG said:

Another diversion for this Thread.

 

A long shot I guess.

 

So I've got a hedge that's approx. 120ft long and approx. 7ft high and I need someone to cut it on one side and a trim along the top.

 

The side that needs cutting runs along side the pavement, I'm not looking for a exhibition finish just so that the pavement is more accessible.

 

I've tried search the web for hedge trimming company but they're nearly all tree surgeons which seems a bot over the top for my needs.

 

So if anyone fancies giving it a go or knows someone who could do it then let me know. probably need a petrol trimmer.

 

I'm in Wigston Magna and at home most of the time.

 

 

 

Is it on the side of the road?  If so a farmer is your man! Ours is 80m or so and gets done for £60

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3 minutes ago, kenny said:

Is it on the side of the road?  If so a farmer is your man! Ours is 80m or so and gets done for £60

Yeah it runs along the pavement / road. 

 

Any contacts?

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14 minutes ago, davieG said:

Yeah it runs along the pavement / road. 

 

Any contacts?

My chap lives on Hospital Lane when the time comes i'll ask him. He is short staffed (shock) so I don't know if he would do others. His young lad used to do it but he has moved on. I will ask if he knows of any local contracting farmers that will do it though as this would be the best option.

 

You can't do it at the moment as its nesting season, the farmers have the box on in spring and autumn.

 

https://paddockmaintenanceservices.co.uk/hedge-cutting/

 

I don't know this outfit, but you will get a better chance from a farming contractor rather than a gardener and it will be cheaper if they are already working locally. It takes them half an hour or so to do a hedge whereas a gardener will take a couple of days.

 

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1 hour ago, kenny said:

My chap lives on Hospital Lane when the time comes i'll ask him. He is short staffed (shock) so I don't know if he would do others. His young lad used to do it but he has moved on. I will ask if he knows of any local contracting farmers that will do it though as this would be the best option.

 

You can't do it at the moment as its nesting season, the farmers have the box on in spring and autumn.

 

https://paddockmaintenanceservices.co.uk/hedge-cutting/

 

I don't know this outfit, but you will get a better chance from a farming contractor rather than a gardener and it will be cheaper if they are already working locally. It takes them half an hour or so to do a hedge whereas a gardener will take a couple of days.

 

Hi thanks for that, I’ve now had an offer from. Foxestalker so should be ok.

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On 14/07/2022 at 11:20, grobyfox1990 said:

What’s the most effective way of dealing with ivy? I have 6ft+ Ivy bushes growing along the length of the house on the other side, and growing into my garden, above, below and through the fence. I have tried chopping through the roots, pouring gallons of bleach into them, plus every other tip on google and it still grows weekly at a ferocious rate. How can I stop this 

 

On 14/07/2022 at 18:30, pSinatra said:

 

Ivy is a pain in the arse.  Once it has established itself, you'll do well to clear it in one go.

 

Like most things in gardening there is no substitute for hard graft.  My favourite tool & what I find best for clearing ivy, a mattock.  I'd say about £20 for one the same as in the photo from somewhere like Toolstation.

 

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If you use it in a pulling motion about 8 inches deep, you can get under ivy that creeps across the ground.  The thicker/main stems, it will be easier to dig/lever them out with this rather than using a spade. 

 

You can spend all day clearing ivy but, like I said, you'll do well to get it all first time.  Give it a few weeks or so, see what comes back up & spray with weedkiller.  Glyphosate 360 concentrate should work - although it may take a few doses.

 

For anyone that spends a fortune on Roundup.  Don't bother.  Get yourself a pressure sprayer & for about £15-£20 you can buy a litre of concentrated glyphosate.  Just add water & it will last you years.  It's the same active ingredient as Roundup but a fraction of the price.

 

On 14/07/2022 at 18:37, Webbo said:

Problem is, it's coming through the fence, from the waste ground at the back. I've tried getting into the waste ground but it's that thick with trees and shrubs I can't get near the back of the fence. 

 

On 14/07/2022 at 18:55, pSinatra said:

 

Not being able to get to it is a major problem.  Even if you could, it sounds as if it would take a lot of effort for what would only be a temporary measure

 

You'd probably need a long lasting residual weedkiller to create a barrier.  They are usually pretty expensive -  especially in the quantities you'd be talking. 

 

Maybe @Countryfox may be able to advise?

 

Not much I can add really that hasn't already been mentioned ...   you can tip all sorts of things over it but it is very hard to properly kill it off ...   I sometimes use strong weed killers but have to get them through a friend that has a licence.  pSinatra's method of ripping it out (as above) is probably the best solution ...  but if creosote or turps works for you then more power to your elbow ! ...    as for you Webbo perhaps you could try and fight your way through to it ...   hard graft I know and will be a shock to your system after lifting a heavy paint brush all day ! ...:D ...  or maybe taking a bit of your fence out to get to it, or going over the top ..  

 

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On 14/07/2022 at 10:33, Finnegan said:

 

See this is part of my problem. I currently don't own anything and I'm planning on moving before it will have grown back. At this point I'm weighing up the cost of paying someone to clear it vs buying literally everything I'll need to clear it myself. Stuff that I might not need at my next place. 

Just as a pointer I picked up some kit second hand bits off eBay and completely redid my lawn…. I sold my petrol rotovator as I’d done with and didn’t think I’d be needing it again and it actually went for £50 more than I paid for it!  You’ll probably need a heavy duty strimmer and hedge cutter…. Go petrol and second hand, then flog back when you’re done 

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 13/07/2022 at 23:19, pSinatra said:

 

Always happy to help where I can.

 

More of a keen gardener, as no longer professional.  Full time carer/dog walker these days.

Hello mate. 

 

Posted this in the Gardening and Wildlife thread but no one has responded and I've just seen this thread.

 

We've recently had our front done. Turf on one side. I'm just starting out looking after my turf(front and back) fertilising etc. 

 

Noticed we had two thornes growing up through the grass on the front lawn, now there was never a rose/Thorne Bush there before. Any ideas how I can get rid of it so it doesn't come back please? 

 

Also.. think I've buggered the grass with keeping it as short as I did with this weather 🤧

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25 minutes ago, Ashley said:

Hello mate. 

 

Posted this in the Gardening and Wildlife thread but no one has responded and I've just seen this thread.

 

We've recently had our front done. Turf on one side. I'm just starting out looking after my turf(front and back) fertilising etc. 

 

Noticed we had two thornes growing up through the grass on the front lawn, now there was never a rose/Thorne Bush there before. Any ideas how I can get rid of it so it doesn't come back please? 

 

Also.. think I've buggered the grass with keeping it as short as I did with this weather 🤧

 

I would suggest that most people cut their grass too short.  Cutting it short - you cut the moisture out of it.  It will look great in the spring but will be dry & yellow by the middle of summer.

 

An established lawn can take a fair amount of harsh treatment & will usually be fine - no matter how poorly it looks.  It will depend how long your lawn has been down, how it has coped with the dry weather/drought.  Newly laid lawn is always a little fragile.  You're not going to know until we've had a decent amount of rain & the grass starts growing again.

 

I'm not sure what you have growing through your lawn - is it brambles?  Maybe, if there's enough of it to post a picture & I'll have a look. 

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15 hours ago, pSinatra said:

 

I would suggest that most people cut their grass too short.  Cutting it short - you cut the moisture out of it.  It will look great in the spring but will be dry & yellow by the middle of summer.

 

An established lawn can take a fair amount of harsh treatment & will usually be fine - no matter how poorly it looks.  It will depend how long your lawn has been down, how it has coped with the dry weather/drought.  Newly laid lawn is always a little fragile.  You're not going to know until we've had a decent amount of rain & the grass starts growing again.

 

I'm not sure what you have growing through your lawn - is it brambles?  Maybe, if there's enough of it to post a picture & I'll have a look. 

 

What would be the recommended grass length?

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1 hour ago, The Blur said:

 

What would be the recommended grass length?

 

somewhere between 1 inch to 2 inches.  

 

I wouldn't expect anyone to get their tape measure out & start measuring the length of a blade of grass.  Most 'decent' mowers will have about 5 or 6 choices of height - go for 2nd or 3rd lowest.  A cheap & cheerful might only have 3 height choices - go for the middle.

 

More regular cutting & only cutting a little off at a time is far more beneficial than leaving it for weeks & then battering it.  Seems fairly obvious.

 

Not at the moment, but when the grass is growing at a reasonable rate, I'll cut the grass once a week.  I'm basically cutting the tips out & keeping the grass at a uniform length.

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25 minutes ago, pSinatra said:

 

somewhere between 1 inch to 2 inches.  

 

I wouldn't expect anyone to get their tape measure out & start measuring the length of a blade of grass.  Most 'decent' mowers will have about 5 or 6 choices of height - go for 2nd or 3rd lowest.  A cheap & cheerful might only have 3 height choices - go for the middle.

 

More regular cutting & only cutting a little off at a time is far more beneficial than leaving it for weeks & then battering it.  Seems fairly obvious.

 

Not at the moment, but when the grass is growing at a reasonable rate, I'll cut the grass once a week.  I'm basically cutting the tips out & keeping the grass at a uniform length.

It's also easier to cut especially if you've go a push along mower. I also leave the collection box off if I can do it weekly.

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1 minute ago, davieG said:

It's also easier to cut especially if you've go a push along mower. I also leave the collection box off if I can do it weekly.

 

good tip 

 

The woman at the back of us, cuts her grass rarely.  She's emptying the grass box every few feet, always dragging grass from the chute as it's blocked & it takes her hours.  A false economy.  It would take 10 minutes if she did it every 2 weeks & it wouldn't look like she's cut it with a knife & fork

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3 minutes ago, pSinatra said:

 

good tip 

 

The woman at the back of us, cuts her grass rarely.  She's emptying the grass box every few feet, always dragging grass from the chute as it's blocked & it takes her hours.  A false economy.  It would take 10 minutes if she did it every 2 weeks & it wouldn't look like she's cut it with a knife & fork

I'm ok with lawns it's the rest of the gardening that does me. :P

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5 hours ago, pSinatra said:

 

somewhere between 1 inch to 2 inches.  

 

I wouldn't expect anyone to get their tape measure out & start measuring the length of a blade of grass.  Most 'decent' mowers will have about 5 or 6 choices of height - go for 2nd or 3rd lowest.  A cheap & cheerful might only have 3 height choices - go for the middle.

 

More regular cutting & only cutting a little off at a time is far more beneficial than leaving it for weeks & then battering it.  Seems fairly obvious.

 

Not at the moment, but when the grass is growing at a reasonable rate, I'll cut the grass once a week.  I'm basically cutting the tips out & keeping the grass at a uniform length.

 

Sorry- I just realised I worded my first question in the hurry and was not more polite.   Great response thankyou.  

 

Yeah I am using the second lowest setting at the moment- back lawn look ok but the front lawn do not look great!  I try to alternate between each lawn each week but having a toddler do get in the way! 

 

Do gardeners do consultations?   I have moved in a new house six months ago with fair bit of gardening.   It would be good if I have a gardener coming around just telling me which plants need watering more and all that.  I have killed pretty much all plants on front lawn 😂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by The Blur
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1 hour ago, The Blur said:

 

Sorry- I just realised I worded my first question in the hurry and was not more polite.   Great response thankyou.  

 

Yeah I am using the second lowest setting at the moment- back lawn look ok but the front lawn do not look great!  I try to alternate between each lawn each week but having a toddler do get in the way! 

 

Do gardeners do consultations?   I have moved in a new house six months ago with fair bit of gardening.   It would be good if I have a gardener coming around just telling me which plants need watering more and all that.  I have killed pretty much all plants on front lawn 😂

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Don't go thinking I have the perfect lawn - far from from it.  I do the best I can with the time I've got.  

 

And I don't think I've got green fingers anymore than anyone else either.  I've been at it for nearly 30 years & like any other job, I've learnt as I've gone along.  I'm still learning now. 

 

I think I said earlier in the thread, that I would always encourage anyone to have a go.  It either grows or it doesn't.

 

I can't say I ever offered a consulation service.  Nobody ever asked.  But I was always happy to pass on any advice I could to my customers or expain whatever I was doing.   I wouldn't have thought getting a gardener in for some advice is completely out of the question.

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On 15/08/2022 at 22:11, pSinatra said:

But I was always happy to pass on any advice

Can I ask for some advice? We have a magnolia that is 20 years old, slow growing but is starting to encroach on our neighbours garden meaning the petal fall in late spring lands in their garden maybe causing them problems. I'm reluctant to cut off the overhanging branches as it will likely cause open gaps in the leaf growth and I don't know if they will recover and refill. 

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